Porsche 944 Replacing the camshaft housing gaskets

Porsche 944 Replacing the camshaft housing gaskets

16 thoughts on “Porsche 944 Replacing the camshaft housing gaskets

  1. Очень интересное конструкторское решение механизма ГРМ. Не каждый автопроизводитель может себе такое позволить. Браво PORSCHE !!!  Механикам с кривыми руками близко не подходить! Спасибо за видео.

  2. Jurgen.  Thanks for the great video.  Will follow your instruction carefully when I tear down my 944 turbo engine this coming year.

  3. Normalerweise solltest Du ein T-Shirt haben mit der Aufschrift Dr. Prof. Dipl. Ing. Genie 944. 😊😊😊 Liebe Grüsse aus Regensburg Andi

  4. If you want the steps, I think this is accurate:

    How to Replace the Valve Cover Gasket

    1. Place the engine cylinder number one (on the compression stroke) at TDC. It’s best to use the window above the flywheel for this.

    2. Dust engine.

    3. Disconnect the sensor at the rear of the valve cover (attached to the engine lift).

    4. Disconnect the vacuum lines from the fuel rail. If necessary, remove and close off the fuel lines should they cross over the top of the fuel rail.

    5. Remove fuel rail.

    6. Use two jeweler’s screwdrivers to disconnect the electrical lines at the fuel injectors. Remove and cover the inlet with aluminium foil.

    7. Cover the fuel injector holes with aluminium foil.

    8. Remove front distributor cover.

    9. Remove the cam shaft key and the three bolts holding the rear part of the distributor/valve cover camshaft end.

    10. Remove the sealing ring by working it out from the inside.

    11. Pull the spacer sleeve.

    12. Remove the holder for the ignition wires (plastic piece that accepts the spark plug wires).

    13. Tap to remove the rear distributor housing.

    14. Remove the mylar seal (transparent washer).

    15. Remove the screw covers. Be certain that you get the washers.

    16. Using an ‘out to in’ pattern, remove the valve spring retainers.

    17. Remove the allen bolts with help from added grease to the allen key.

    18. Wiggle loose the valve cover until the top edge is about 10 degrees from the cylinder head. The lower edge should still contact the cylinder head. Add some grease to each tappet in order to keep them from falling out.

    19. Clean the cylinder head by removing any residual gasket material. You may wish to use a brass chisel. Follow this with acetone to complete the cleaning process.

    20. The lower bolt receivers (close to the exhaust header) will be full of oil. Be sure to completely clean these with the help of Q-tips.

    21. With the valve cover inverted, remove the tappets with help from a magnet. These must be placed in corresponding order on a numbered piece of paper. It is essential that these not be mixed up.

    22. Clean the remaining bits of gasket on the valve cover along with the oil routes.

    23. Why not take advantage of the valve cover being removed from the engine to clean it and powder coat it.

    24. Should you have to replace the gasket at the rear valve cover be sure to put a thin layer of gasket sealant followed by the gasket and then another thin layer of the tubed gasket sealant.

    25. Tighten the rear cover bolts to 8 Nm.

    26. When installing the cam gear make sure the line is across from the TDC indicator line.

    27. Glue the tappets back into place with help from grease. It is important the tappets for cylinders 1 and 4 are inserted completely and bottomed-out. Cylinder 2 and 3 tappets can be extended a bit beyond the face of the valve cover.

    28. Overhaul the bolt threads.

    29. Apply the valve cover gasket with correction orientation (this side up).

    30. Install the valve cover. Be certain that none of the tappets have fallen out and that the pins are correctly aligned.

    31. Install the bolts by hand through the bolt hole cover and into the cylinder head.

    32. Reattach the heater line.

    33. Using an inside to outside pattern, gently torque the cheesehead bolts that connect the valve cover onto the cylinder head by reaching through the bolt hole openings (10 Nm).

    34. Complete the tightening to a final torque of 20 Nm.

    35. Install a new mylar washer onto the camshaft along with a new seal (to cover the bearing in the distributor cover). Use oil to assure a good seal.

    36. Insert rear distributor cover bolts. They should be difficult to do so. Use a hollowed-out cylinder to coax the rear cover to its final resting place. Torque the three bolts to 8 Nm.

    37. Coat the inner sleeve with grease (flange to rear). Install.

    38. Coat the camshaft seal with oil – especially the inner surface. Install.

    39. Install woodruff key.

    40. Reinstall the cam gear.

    41. Coat the driver and install over woodruff key. Insert allen head bolt and tighten to 20 Nm. Be certain to keep the sleeve and camshaft gear from rotating.

    42. Clean the seats of the cover holes.

    43. Mount the screw plugs with new rings. Fasten all by hand.

    44. Torque the screw hole plugs to 40 Nm. (!)

    45. Tighten the bolt in the end of the camshaft to 70 Nm. Be sure to hold the sleeve to keep the camshaft gear from moving.

    46. Reconnect the CO2 sniffer tube.

    47. Replace the fuel injectors. Be certain that these are cleaner than clean.

    48. Replace the fuel rail. Torque M6 bolts to 8 Nm.

    49. Attach electrical lines to injectors.

    50. Install injector clips. These should be free to turn.

    51. If necessary, attach spark plug wires.

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